So you’ve arrived in Southeast Asia, or the Caribbean, or some other destination that will just give the go ahead to anyone with $5 to menacing their streets with their rookie motorbike skills. You don’t have an international driver’s license, you don’t have a motorcycle license, you’ve never ridden on the back, let alone driven a bike, so should you throw caution to the wind and dispatch yourself on the exploration of uncharted adventures with a freedom that’s been hitherto untapped in your life?
Absolutely.
But with caution. See the guy in line in front of you? The one with tribal neck tattoos and who looks like he’s never heard of shirts? That’s one of many reasons. He probably has no better idea what he’s doing than you do, it just hasn’t occurred to him to be nervous. So I’ve put together a list of tips to help a lady navigate the process of learning to drive a motorbike in another country. Sure, public transportation is safe and provides an authentic glimpse into the lives of locals, but hitting the open road brings with it an independence that will change your entire experience. So here’s some beginner advice from one lady to another:
1. Start with an automatic
Don’t know anything about bikes? Don’t speak Khmer and can’t ask questions? Hold off and do a little research before you roll out with a fully manual, 1200 cc motorcycle (which is not easy to rent by accident, so don’t worry). If you’re exploring mostly urban, paved roads and have never been on a bike before, you’ll be fine with a fully automatic scooter, like a Honda Click. All rental bikes and scooters should come with a helmet. If not, keep walking.
2. Observe the local driving habits
Especially in Asia, contending with traffic is the most formidable aspect of learning to drive a bike. And you won’t know all the traffic laws. There may be some obvious differences like driving on the opposite side of the road, but some things may escape your notice until you’re the one behind the wheel. For example, up to three or four bikes may be sharing a lane and you all have to reconcile each other’s presence and get from point A to point B. When the roads are comically packed, and your rear mirror’s showing you a small army of bikes roaring to go behind you, adhere to the rule in skiing: You’re responsible for what’s in front of you. That’s not to say you should swerve all over the road and let everyone behind you just deal, but if you spend too much time looking in your mirrors you will not be prepared for all the tomfoolery popping out of the woodwork and in front of your bike every one and a half seconds.
Oh, and be ready for people to drive on the wrong side of the road or on the sidewalk. Be ready for so many potholes you think they’ve set booby traps. Be ready for live electrical wires lying and dangling around, and never underestimate the rain.
3. Be cautious in rain
Rain is what makes all these tropical countries so picturesque, so it makes sense you’ll get caught in it. If you’re just driving from the beach to your hostel 5 minutes away, there’s no reason to hunker down with all kinds of gear, but if you plan to be taking trips across the city, be prepared:
Get a helmet with a visor (especially true if you wear glasses).
You should always be wearing your helmet regardless of weather, but you’ll want a plastic screen to maintain visibility and to guard your eyes from being pelted with water and mud.
Keep more distance between you and what’s around you
Same as at home, the rain will bring the oil to the surface of the road, making things slick and stopping time a little longer. Plus, big cars and trucks will spray mud and grime all over you if you follow to close. People impatient behind you? Screw em. Let em get wet, let em be late. Trust your instincts and only drive at the speed you’re comfortable. Old ladies take their sweet ass time and no seems to hold it against them.
Potholes: Rain obscures the size and depths of potholes, which can puncture your tires or worse. Again, be slower and more cautious in inclement weather. Rain or no rain, there’s a good chance you’ll have to get a tire repaired if you’re exploring for more than an afternoon.
4. Planning to get out of town? It might be time for something bigger…
Investigate the conditions of roads in more rural areas. The tires on small scooters are not suited to gravel or sandy roads. If you don’t wipe out, you could get stuck somewhere and need to organize a lift for you and your bike.
Going up mountains? You may want something with a little more power. It’s quite terrifying to be holding up traffic and hear the horns of impatience blaring behind you while trying to negotiate turns and potholes. (Yes, this contradicts #3, but people can’t so easily pass you on an incline.)
5. Do you need insurance?
I have not purchased insurance, so I would not be in a credible position to recommend doing so to others. That being said, I have lived in Thailand for over a year, I have seen many motorbike crashes, involving Thais and tourists alike, and almost everyone I know who drives a bike has crashed, including myself. For minor scrapes and bangs, medical care is much more reasonable and affordable than in the U.S. But serious collisions do happen, including fatal ones. If you can afford the peace of mind, by all means, it’s a good investment.
6. Do not drink and drive
No the fuck duh. However, some folks assume that when changing countries or continents this nugget of common sense does not follow. It does. So keep a look out for those folks and steer clear. Literally.
Interested in reading about our motorbiking adventures?
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